The focaccia: history, evolution and variations of an all-Italian myth

Focaccia traces its roots back to ancient Mediterranean civilizations like the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Greeks, who baked cereal-based doughs (such as barley, millet, or rye) directly on stone or over fire.

In ancient Rome, it was already considered a refined food: simple types of flatbread like libum or placenta were often offered to the gods during religious ceremonies.

During the Renaissance, focaccia became a feature of wedding banquets, typically served with wine—a symbol of abundance and good fortune.

Later, it became a staple in rural households, baked in home hearths and used to accompany vegetables, soups, or cheese. Thanks to its simplicity and longer shelf life compared to fresh bread, it was ideal for travel and work meals.

The word focaccia comes from the Latin focus, meaning hearth—the place where these flatbreads were traditionally baked.

Over the centuries, focaccia became a part of everyday life, loved for its simplicity, versatility, and ability to adapt to local ingredients.

Over time, every region in Italy developed its own version of focaccia, resulting in a rich variety of recipes and traditions. Each one reflects the local ingredients and culinary customs of its area.

Focaccia Genovese

One of the most famous types, focaccia genovese is flat, soft on the inside, and slightly crisp on the outside. Before baking, it’s brushed with a mix of olive oil, water, and coarse salt—called salamoia—which gives it a shiny finish and a bold yet balanced flavor.

It’s eaten at any time of day—yes, even for breakfast dipped in cappuccino, as per Genoese tradition!

There are many local variations, especially in inland towns. The most well-known is onion focaccia (fugàssa co-a çiòula), made with ultra-thin slices of onion marinated in olive oil and baked into the dough. The result is a bold, unmistakable flavor.

Other popular toppings include rosemary and olives—simple variations that reflect the creativity and seasonality of the Ligurian region.

Focaccia Barese

Typical of the city of Bari but loved all over Puglia, this focaccia is higher and softer than the Genoese version. The dough includes mashed potatoes, which give it a pillowy texture.

It’s topped with cherry tomatoes, black olives, oregano, and extra virgin olive oil—a street food classic with rich, Mediterranean flavor.

Schiacciata Toscana

In Tuscany, focaccia is known as schiacciata. It’s typically simple, topped with just olive oil and salt. In some areas, it’s filled with cured meats or cheeses for a bold, savory snack.

There’s also a sweet version: schiacciata all’uva, made during grape harvest season. This rustic dessert has a golden crust and an intense, earthy sweetness.

Sicilian Focacce

Sicilian focaccia varies greatly across the island but is generally richer and more heavily filled than other types. Two of the most iconic versions are sfincione palermitano and focaccia messinese.

Sfincione is tall and fluffy, topped with tomato sauce, onions, anchovies, breadcrumbs, and cheese.

The Messina version has a soft dough made from re-milled semolina, flour, water, sugar, salt, and lard. It’s topped with escarole, salted anchovies, tomato slices, tuma (a Sicilian cheese), olive oil, oregano, salt, and pepper.

Traditional focaccia is made with just a few simple ingredients:

• Flour;
• Water;
• Yeast;
• Salt;
• Extra virgin olive oil.

These basics form the foundation of most recipes, although regional versions may include slight variations.
 

Beyond the classic version, focaccia can be enriched with a wide range of ingredients. Some examples include:

• Cherry tomatoes, onions, olives, rosemary, oregano;
• Cured meats, cheeses, anchovies;
• Grapes, sugar, and anise for sweet versions.

These additions turn focaccia into a complete dish or an even tastier snack—always built on the soft, fragrant base of the dough.

There’s no single shape or style of focaccia. It can be thin and crispy (like in Tuscany) or tall and fluffy (like in Liguria or Puglia), depending on regional traditions. It’s usually baked in a rectangular or round tray and cut into pieces for serving.

The flavor also varies: focaccia genovese is simple, salty, and oily, with a chewy texture and golden crust. Richer versions, like those from Bari or Sicily, are more intense and aromatic, thanks to ingredients like tomatoes, onions, or cheese that release flavor during baking.

Despite its simplicity, focaccia holds a special place in Italian food culture. You’ll find it in bakeries, markets, ovens, and homes across the country.

Each regional variety tells a different story—one of seasonal ingredients, local tradition, and family bonds.

To discover focaccia is to dive into a world of flavor and time-honored rituals that still play a part in daily life for countless Italians today.